By Santiago Legarre
In the early 20th century, newlyweds Martin and Osa Johnson left the United States on an extraordinary adventure to Africa. Their mission was to capture photographs for the national museums in Washington, D.C. (and later, when film became feasible, to produce black-and-white motion pictures). As was customary then, they arrived in Kenya by sea and boarded the Mombasa-Nairobi train, carrying an unprecedented collection of photographic equipment. But from Nairobi, their journey north grew perilous. With dozens of men and oxen, they travelled slowly through rugged terrain toward the Ewaso Nyiro in Samburu. After an epic crossing of the swollen river, they pressed on through the desert, continuing north to Marsabit National Park. They discovered a vast crater surrounded by lush vegetation—reminiscent of Nairobi’s Karura Forest.
Brimming with water, this crater enchanted them so much that they named it Lake Paradise. For nearly half a decade, the Johnsons made their home beside this serene lake, living in what they considered their paradise.
My team and I decided to trace the Johnsons’ footsteps a century later. Having devoured Martin Johnson’s book, Safari: A Saga of the African Blue, published in the 1920s, I was captivated by the tale of Lake Paradise. As I pored over the 66 black-and-white photographs within the book’s pages, the place came alive in my imagination—a dream I was determined to fulfil.
At this moment, as if by fate, Habiba Kaseile, one of my students at Strathmore University Business School, connected me with Sarah Elemah, also known as “The Queen of the North.” Sarah, a passionate advocate for Marsabit National Park, was enthusiastic. Her charisma and efficiency convinced me to join her mission to reintroduce this stunning park—home of Lake Paradise—to the world. And so, with the conviction of a fresh recruit, I sit here today to chronicle my visit to one of Kenya’s most remote yet breathtaking destinations.
The Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) was pivotal in our journey to Marsabit National Park. They graciously invited us to explore the park and hosted us in their comfortable bandas—affordable accommodations also open to the public. Unfortunately, these bandas are currently the only lodging available within the park, as previous options have fallen into disrepair. However, those of us who have fallen in love with Marsabit and its famous lake remain hopeful that renewed interest will lead to revitalization.
Picture courtesy of Fr Francis Rimbau
I will conclude on an optimistic note. Sarah Elemah’s “Chalbi Desert Extreme,” the safari venture she founded, earned her the title “The Queen of the North.” During the pandemic, she successfully attracted hundreds of visitors to Marsabit National Park. With more visionaries like Sarah, a dose of public trust, and a renewed spirit of adventure, the home of Lake Paradise could once again become a magical northern enclave—a fitting tribute to the “Saga of the African Blue.”
Beyond Lake Paradise, Marsabit National Park boasts two more crater lakes—Elephant Pool and Bongole. All three serve as vital waterholes for wildlife, and while Bongole is the largest, it lies within the Marsabit National Reserve, adjacent to the park. During our visit, the elephants gathered at Bongole, offering us a glimpse of the park’s dwindling wildlife population.
Sadly, poaching has taken a devastating toll on Marsabit’s wildlife, a tragedy worsened by the park’s proximity to Marsabit Town. Wildlife numbers have plummeted since the Johnsons first set up camp here. If you decide to explore this remarkable place, I recommend focusing on the breathtaking vistas, the lush forest, and the captivating landscape. Wildlife sightings, while possible, should be considered a bonus rather than a primary expectation. With time, more visitors, and stricter law enforcement, we hope the animals will flourish again.
The Johnsons’ legacy endures at Marsabit National Park. At the park’s main gate stands a museum dedicated to Martin and Osa, displaying many iconic black-and-white photos from my beloved book and other fascinating artefacts. Among them is a photograph of the Johnsons’ house, built beside Lake Paradise. In a nostalgic quest, my team and I searched tirelessly for the remains of this house. Finally, my pilot Anthony made a stunning realization—we had been standing on its foundations all along, which now lie beneath one of the park’s roads.
Encouraging signs are already emerging. The recent “Isiolo, Marsabit, and Samburu County Investment Conference,” held on August 5, 2024, is a case in point. Under the theme “Unveiling Opportunities: Redefining Northern Kenya as an Investable Destination,” the event in Isiolo Town demonstrated that Marsabit’s future is ripe with potential. With more initiatives like this, the paradise once lost may soon be regained.
Santiago Legarre, a safari enthusiast, is an Argentinian visiting lecturer at Strathmore University, Nairobi.
